How the tap works

In order to confidently identify the nature and cause of a crane malfunction, you should know how it works. Regardless of the design features and location, all modern mixers have a two-valve or single lever design.

Two valve mixers

Single lever mixers

Single lever tap with ceramic cartridge

1 – adjusting handle;
2 – aerator;
3 – ceramic cartridge;
4 – tap body;
5 – fixing bracket;
6 – water supply hoses.

It should be noted that the tap box of the tap may also differ in design. Older models of mixers used stopcocks with a retractable piston and a rubber gasket, and in modern models — with a side ceramic shut-off block.

Single lever tap with ceramic cartridge

1 – adjusting handle;
2 – aerator;
3 – ceramic cartridge;
4 – tap body;
5 – fixing bracket;
6 – water supply hoses.

In terms of wear resistance and reliability, ceramic cartridge taps are more durable. Devices with a ceramic crane-box have less durability, and models with a rubber gasket are considered the most short-lived.

Certain differences and execution are introduced by the purpose of the device and the place of its installation: kitchen sink, washbasin or bathroom. So, kitchen models have a high and long spout (“gander”), and bathroom taps have a shower head with a hose and a tap / shower switch. Another difference lies in the method of installation: a distinction is made between vertical (wall), usually used in the bathroom, and horizontal (desktop) mount.

A separate group of devices are advanced and expensive mixers with a thermostat and non- contact models with a built-in infrared sensor. If you encounter problems in such devices, then you should not solve them on your own: in this case, you need to contact a knowledgeable specialist.

Mention should also be made of such an important unit in plumbing as a diverter, which is designed to switch the direction of water flow between a watering can and a tap.

The most common designs of these units are push-button (exhaust), cartridge and lever. The diverter, usually, is not responsible for the pressure or mixing of cold and hot water, but simply directs the “flow” in the right direction.

Typical tap malfunctions and their causes

Regardless of the manufacturer of the tap, its type, class and appearance, many typical malfunctions are associated with the natural wear of the components. In this section, we will look at the most common cases of breakdowns and how you can deal with them on your own.

To make a “diagnosis” and accurately determine the location of the defect, it is enough to turn on the water and monitor the operation of the tap for a while. If a closed tap leak is observed, then, most likely, a tight seal is not provided due to a destroyed rubber gasket or dirt particles entering the ceramic block. The cause of the leak in the connection of the "gander" with the body is the wear of the rubber seal ring. A leak from under the lever or valve may be due to a loose fit of the ceramic cartridge or gland in the tap seat, wear of the cartridge discs or the valve-box valve. A leak from under the shower diverter indicates a worn gland seal. When water pours from the shower and spout at the same time, then this is an obvious sign of a diverter malfunction, which has a worn spool gasket. Jamming of the divertor button, which does not allow switching water from the spout to the shower, is explained by a broken spring. With a weak stream of water in the bathroom, you need to compare the pressure with a tap in another room (in the kitchen). A noticeable difference in the flow of water from different taps can only speak of one thing — a clogged aerator. From time to time, with a normally operating tap, you can detect a leak from the supply hoses, which is fraught with a flood of neighbors from below. Despite the outer sheath of metal fibers, there is a rubber tube inside such hoses, which is why they need to be changed every 4 to 5 years. The same is true for shower hoses.

As can be seen from the list of indicated causes of malfunctions, the valve often fails after wear of the rubber seal elements, which are destroyed by prolonged exposure to salts dissolved in water and the inevitable aging of the material, which loses elasticity over time. Ceramics works reliably with clean water, but when connected directly to the water supply without a filter, it is difficult to predict the life of the cartridge or tap box. Lime build-up from hard water and galvanic corrosion can also cause tap failure.

If a leak appeared immediately after installing a new tap, then it is worth checking whether the installation was carried out correctly. In the event that you are convinced of this, but the problem remains, then you are simply unlucky and there is only one way out — to carry the faulty crane to the replacement store.

Self-repair tap

Contrary to the popular belief that only a plumber can fix a broken tap, we can say that many malfunctions can be fixed on your own. In this article, we will consider simple repair methods based on the usual replacement of nodes. And for a more complex repair, in which individual parts change, certain experience, knowledge and skills are required.

How to disassemble the tap

Any tap repair, one way or another, is associated with a partial disassembly of the tap in order to gain access to damaged components that need to be replaced. Regardless of the type of plumbing, there are a few general guidelines that must be followed to prevent neighbors from flooding and to eliminate the possibility of being left without water after repairs.

1. Evaluate the nature of the malfunction and the expected elements requiring replacement;
2. Prepare the necessary tool for disassembling the tap in advance;
3. Stock up on spare parts that need to be replaced;
4. Do not forget to turn off the water supply to the tap before starting work.

In most cases, repairs will require the usual set of tools, including an adjustable wrench, screwdriver, pliers ( pliers) and a flashlight. Sometimes you need a regular kitchen knife, adjustable pliers or a special hex key. And try to always have a spare serviceable cartridge or crane box on hand, which very often help to understand that it is these nodes in the existing tap that have become unusable.

Consider disassembly using the example of today's most common tap with one rotary handle.

1. Start disassembly by removing the single-lever handle. The lever mounting screws are located under a decorative plastic cap, which should be carefully pry off with a screwdriver or knife. After that, you need to unscrew the screw with a screwdriver and remove the handle. Usually, a recessed screw and the position of the slot on its head are hard to see in the depth of the mounting hole. To do this, in the tool kit you need a flashlight, with which you can highlight the place of work;

2. Next, you need to unscrew the decorative cap, under which the hex nut of the ceramic cartridge is hidden. There is no need to use a tool here — it is easily unscrewed along the thread by hand;

3. Now we unscrew the clamping fixing nut, which presses the ceramic valve to the seat. For this operation, we will use an adjustable wrench;

4. That's it, the cartridge is free, and it can already be carefully removed from the case, slightly shaking from side to side.

How to replace the cartridge in the tap

Replacing the shut-off valve is necessary when a closed tap is leaking or the pressure control lever is leaking.

The algorithm for replacing a ceramic valve in a single-lever tap is very simple and accessible to any user who has ever held tools in their hands. The procedure for disassembling the tap is described in detail in the previous section and is clearly visible in the following illustrations:

After removing the defective cartridge, installing a new cartridge is performed in the reverse order. It should be taken into account that the seating surface of the ceramic valve has protrusions, which must be aligned with the corresponding surface in the tap body. Therefore, for proper installation, you must rotate the cartridge to accurately fix the protrusions in the sockets of the supporting surface.

Alignment of cartridge tabs and body seat

How to replace the axle box in the tap

Classic two-valve mixers differ from "one-handed" designs and are disassembled a little differently.

The procedure for replacing the crane box in these cranes is as follows:

1. We remove the decorative plug of the crosspiece (the rotary knob for adjusting the pressure). For the cold water valve, this is a blue plug, and for the hot water valve, it is red. In some models of mixers, a plug with a fastening screw is installed not on the axis, but on the side;

2. At the next stage, we unscrew the casing of the valve valve, which is held on several threads. It, like the decorative cap of a "one-handed" tap, is twisted out effortlessly by hand.

3. And it will not be possible to unscrew the ceramic axle box with your hands — you will need an adjustable wrench to loosen the thread.

4. After installing a new serviceable valve, we assemble the tap in the reverse order.

How to replace a diverter in a tap

The tricky word "divertor" means a simple mechanism, which is most often located in the body of a bathroom tap. It is needed to change the direction of the flow of water from the shower to the spout and vice versa. There are many designs of diverters, but for simplicity, one should distinguish between built-in tap and separate attached mechanisms.

Built-in diverter

Connectable diverter

We will consider the process of replacing a shower diverter using the example of both types of nodes until the damaged mechanism is completely removed. The process of installing a new serviceable diverter is carried out in reverse order.

In the first example, we will analyze the procedure for replacing the inline switch type.

1. First, remove the outer plug, under which the fastening screw is hidden. In some cases, instead of a plug, a chrome-plated screw can be installed, with a finish in the colour of the tap itself;

2. The screw loosened with a key can be easily turned out with two fingers;

3. Remove the handle of the flow switch from the splines of the valve stem;

4. To remove a faulty valve (as in our case), or an eccentric or cartridge, unscrew it with an adjustable wrench, grasping the hexagon;

5. We remove the faulty valve mechanism;

6. To remove the rest of the mechanism, it is necessary to remove the spout, for which we unscrew the fastening nut by hand;

7. Carefully remove the spout;

8. Under the nut is the rest of the internal mechanism, which can now be easily reached;

9. It will look something like this:

Unfortunately, the design of the internal diverter is such that if it is not possible to remove the internal part, then this may require a complete replacement of the tap. And if everything worked out, then you need to collect the dismantled samples and go to the store for new spare parts.

The situation is much simpler with the replacement of a separate attached divertor.

1. First of all, disconnect the shower hose along with the watering can;

2. Now you can remove the diverter assembly with the "gander" by unscrewing the nut attached to the tap;

3. Remove the mechanism along with the spout;

4. And now we unscrew the spout fastening nut and completely release the divertor;

5. In the end, this is what we have. It remains only to take the switch with you to the store and buy a new mechanism that is suitable in size.

As can be seen from the examples of disassembly of divertors with the dismantling of the external structure, there is much less trouble, although it is assembled with a tap and looks more cumbersome.

Summing up

Despite the doubts of an unprepared user, you should not be afraid to take on simple repairs yourself. This is not as difficult as it might seem at first glance, but with the following notes:

1. Never forget to turn off the water on the riser or inlet valve before starting work;
2. Use a suitable tool without applying excessive force so as not to damage the threads of the connections and the chrome finish of the tap;
3. Repair with the replacement of used units with new ones will be more expensive than the replacement of individual parts in these units;
4. Before buying components for repairs, note that the connection standards in east european and imported plumbing are different. It’s a good idea to dismantle the defective assembly in advance and show it to a plumbing store for an accurate selection of a suitable analogue;
5. As you gain experience in nodal repairs, you can try your hand at repairing devices with the replacement of parts. In many cases, simply installing a new seal will be a more reasonable and practical way to repair than replacing the entire assembly;
6. Review your habits in the further operation of mixers. If the lever closes with difficulty, then do not press it harder, because this can damage the ceramic discs of the shutter valve. In this case, you should turn the lever several times in different directions so that a particle of sand that has fallen into the ceramics is washed away by a stream of water.